Growing citrus from seed is surprisingly straight forward, and something that anyone can do if they have a warm, sunny windowsill. Getting the seed is probably the hardest part; you can either buy online through a specialist supplier or – if you only want a few – collect your own from shop bought fruit.
Once you have cut open the fruit and exposed the seed, remove the seed and wash off any fruit residue. You should always clean seed collected from within fruiting bodies as they will contain chemicals which actively prevent seed germination. Place the ‘clean’ seed into a glass of water and discard any that immediately float to the surface as these will not be viable – be aware that smaller seed may rise as air bubbles form on the surface of the seed coat. If you have a variety of seed sizes you may also wish to discard any that look undersized as these are unlikely to have a large enough store of energy required for successful germination. Once you have selected your seed it can be dried off and stored in an envelope until required.
The seed from citrus plants have a natural dormancy period and so will require a period of cold temperature in order to initiate germination. However this can be overcome by placing the seed into the vegetable compartment of any household fridge and left for a few weeks. First, secure the seed into a paper towel by folding the towel it back on itself a couple of times, then place into a plastic bag or sterile food container before leaving it in the fridge.
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After approximately three weeks - although they can be left in there for a month or so should they need to be – they can be removed from the fridge ready for potting on. Soak the seeds for a couple of hours or so before planting them into 2-3 inch pots. Only sow 1 seed per pot using a good quality, free draining soil based compost such as John Innes seed or No1, then water in.
If you can, place the pots into a heated propagator at a temperature of 16 degrees Celsius, otherwise transfer them to a warm, bright position such as a kitchen windowsill. Water periodically so that the compost doesn’t dry out, but make sure that the compost is never left waterlogged either.
Germination should occur anytime from 4 – 6 weeks, but don’t worry if it takes a little longer as citrus seeds have been known to take several months before they show.
The newly emerged seedlings can be left in their pots for a further 3 – 6 months depending on how they develop but once they get to about 4 or 5 inches they can be potted on to the next size pot using a John Innes ericaceous mix or No2 potting compost. So long as there are no frosts predicted the young citrus plants can be put outside to harden off over the next two to three weeks.
During the growing period they can be regularly watered and feed with a water soluble fertilizer once a week. You can often get yellowing of the leaves with citrus plants due to chlorosis but this can be dealt with by feeding an acidic plant food.
Tip out the seedling depending on whether you are growing your orange plant as a bush, wall shrub or standard, or you can leave it alone - allowing it to take on its natural shape.
Unfortunately some citrus such as oranges are not particularly cold hardy although they will tolerate temperatures as low as 4 or 5 degrees Celsius for short periods without to much trouble. For northern European countries it is best to keep all oranges under protection during the winter periods, but once the threat of frosts are over they can then be hardened off for a couple of weeks before spending the rest of the growing season outside in full sun.
However varieties such as the Meyers lemon will tolerate winters outside in milder areas although they may need a little cold protection to reduce the amount of die back that can occur on new season’s growth. As with the oranges it is best to bring them in under protection for at least the first year.
If you can, place the pots into a heated propagator at a temperature of 16 degrees Celsius, otherwise transfer them to a warm, bright position such as a kitchen windowsill. Water periodically so that the compost doesn’t dry out, but make sure that the compost is never left waterlogged either.
Germination should occur anytime from 4 – 6 weeks, but don’t worry if it takes a little longer as citrus seeds have been known to take several months before they show.
The newly emerged seedlings can be left in their pots for a further 3 – 6 months depending on how they develop but once they get to about 4 or 5 inches they can be potted on to the next size pot using a John Innes ericaceous mix or No2 potting compost. So long as there are no frosts predicted the young citrus plants can be put outside to harden off over the next two to three weeks.
During the growing period they can be regularly watered and feed with a water soluble fertilizer once a week. You can often get yellowing of the leaves with citrus plants due to chlorosis but this can be dealt with by feeding an acidic plant food.
Tip out the seedling depending on whether you are growing your orange plant as a bush, wall shrub or standard, or you can leave it alone - allowing it to take on its natural shape.
Unfortunately some citrus such as oranges are not particularly cold hardy although they will tolerate temperatures as low as 4 or 5 degrees Celsius for short periods without to much trouble. For northern European countries it is best to keep all oranges under protection during the winter periods, but once the threat of frosts are over they can then be hardened off for a couple of weeks before spending the rest of the growing season outside in full sun.
However varieties such as the Meyers lemon will tolerate winters outside in milder areas although they may need a little cold protection to reduce the amount of die back that can occur on new season’s growth. As with the oranges it is best to bring them in under protection for at least the first year.
For more information click onto:
How to Grow Aubergines From Seed
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How to Grow Agapanthus from Seed
How to Grow Avocado from Seed
How to Grow Banana Trees from Seed
How to Grow Basil
How to Grow Citrus Trees
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How to Grow Agapanthus from Seed
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How to grow Cucumbers
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11 comments:
Citrus seeds exhibit no dormancy. Please state where you have obtained this information as it appears to be incorrect.
Hello Anonymous,
Thank you for your comment. You may find that citrus seeds exhibit no dormancy as imported fruit would have already been refridgerated whilst in transportation in order to increase shelf life.In their native habitats many citrus - especially lemons - require a cool period for the fruit to ripen . A short period of cooling mimics this natural seasonality and helps to encourage stronger germination. I hope that this answers your question.
Mr Eade,
I'm afraid that I can't concur with your answer for a number of reasons. Please bear with me on this.
In the first instance, my personal experience with most Citrus has been that there is very little observed difference in germination vigour between a cold-treated batch of seeds and those planted directly from unrefrigerated fruit.
Of course, one would utilise consistent soil composition, as well as maintaining other environmental parameters, such as temperature, light intensity in footcandles etc.
Having studied several Plant Sciences to Doctorate level and beyond, I would also have to disagree that lemons require a cool period to 'ripen' in the strictest sense. As I am sure you are aware, changes in temperature in the pre-abscission climate caused the ratios of various elements within the Hesperidium to alter.
Furthermore, you will also be aware that in many areas of the world not experiencing climactic variations of any degree, Citrus fruits grown under such conditions display markedly differing chemical compositions. In particular, Ethylene degreening is frequently required. This of course, serves only to pander to the uninformed general public, who in my experience assume that green oranges or lemons are somehow unworthy of their palates.
With regard to pome and drupe specimens, for example Peach (Prunus spp. L), and Apple (Malus spp L.), it is correct to state that a longer period of cold stratification would be required in order to break Primary dormancy due to effects occurring within the embryo.
In my literature, I can find no mention of there being any cold-dependent inhibitory mechanism intrinsic to Citrus spp L.
I should appreciate if you could provide me with any link or further source as I must state that I can find no academic foundation for your assertion(s) with regard to Citrus.
Of course, you will have studied the Vernalization process, through which many plants' growth metamorphoses from vegetative to flowering?
I do not wish to be a bugbear, but I feel this issue should be clarified. I shall again research this topic and post any pertinent material here for your perusal.
In a nutshell, I cannot support your assertions vis-a-vis Citrus and dormancy.
Thank you.
Professor Alan McLeod Ph.D (Oxon)
Mr Eade,
This may be of interest to you as a starter.
http://www.fshs.org/Proceedings/Password%20Protected/1958%20Vol.%2071/79-81%20(HORANIC).pdf
Thank you professor for you rely, but perhaps you could tell me where you obtained your fruit?
gday, i was wondering if the seed can be grown for rootstock, and if so how do i find out what variety of seed it is? thanks steve
I live here in central Florida, heart of the citrus land. We do have a few cool nights during December and January but no prolonged period of cold temps that would put a seed into dormancy. I've lived here in "citrus land" for 55 years and have grown citrus from seeds and never once put them in a fridge for 4 weeks. I've never heard of that method and I doubt I will ever entertain the use of a fridge to grow citrus seed.
I think that stratification (cold period) may be requiered in cold areas as here in Canada. I think that the important is the changing of temp... I did grow florida grapefruit as the seed was germinated inside the fruit as we where in winter... If the fruit gets under 20 degrees for a week, it may help seeds to germinate more... As well that it helps threes to make flowers. But I'm not doctor...
Hi
Knowing nothing about dormancy and the need (?) for refrigeration, I recently idly planted some tangerine seeds directly from the fruit (I was extracting the juice at the time for winemaking purposes), and was slightly surprised but pleased that 4 seeds germinated. However, I was even more surprised that the four germinations each produced two seedlings. Google research states that tangerine seeds in particular can have more than one embryo; one of these is supposedly genetically identical to the parent but the rest (up to 3 more)are not identical snd may or may not produce fruit in the future. Unfortunately, no guidance is given as to which of the embryos is the identical one and similarly no information I can find says whether or not the two (in this case) seedlings should be split now or later - and if so how this should be accomplished, as each pair is still firmly internally attached to the pip. If one of you can spare the time from protecting your scientific integrity, I would dearly love to know the answers
regards
Sounds like Anonymous may have a complex.. Your information was very helpful, and as an avid grower I would have to agree with Simon-seed is just that, a seed. Every seed as a part of the reproduction process has to go through a natural maturity process.. Both flora and fauna go through this process - it is what links us. Here's one for Anonymous - Everything around you, you may catergorize into four parts Animate living/dead, Inanimate living/dead. Reprodcutions serves to function animate living until inanimate dead, and everything circles back. The basics of principality. A rock is inanimate dead (does not move but is made in parts-sand and granuales) a tree is inanimate living (grows and reproduces but does not move)We are animate living (reproduce and move) lava, wind, moving water is animate dead (it moves, but has no function or need to reproduce) Anything around us falls into one of the four. A plant and seed are living tissue - maturity of seed - whether cold or warm, a dormancy period or maturity process takes place (why you can grow things in the dark)like white asparagus. Extruding your information because you have a Phd, does one or two things - the second Anonymous doesnt have. Wisdom
Thank you Simon
P...H....DICK!!!
Fucking arrogant asshole.
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